Category Archive

I recently read an article in The Charlotte Observer titled “Revised Rule Lets More Pets Go To Dinner” and I thought it’s about time!

Living in Santa Monica, CA I’m really lucky because I can take my dogs Skyler and Cisko to the local restaurants that have outdoor patios. I’ve been emphasizing for years how socializing with your pet is a great way to bond with each other, and your dog becomes a catalyst to meeting new people.

There will always be those people who will come up with any reason to banish dogs from outdoor restaurant areas, but let me share a story with you. I love children and have many nieces and nephews, so before you think I’m anti-kids — hear me out. How many times have you been dining out when what you hear is a child screaming? When I screamed as a kid, my father would remove me from the restaurant — it’s just good old consideration. But for some parents, they just don’t get it. Now back to the dogs. Because of our working hours and crazy schedules, we never have enough time to spend with our pets, especially quality time. SO I SAY HAVE DATE NIGHT WITH YOUR DOGS AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK!

In the article Gary Kelly the author talks about taking his dog, Birdie to The Thomas Street Tavern since she was no bigger than a beer can. Past law limited access to service dogs, but that changed recently when a new rule went into effect allowing restaurants to open outdoor areas to dogs and even cats on a leash.

I was recently driving from Arizona to Los Angeles and when I pulled into a rest stop for gas, I noticed the car next to me had two small dogs jumping up and down on the driver as he pulled away, and I thought to myself this is a disaster waiting to happen.

According to the Automobile Club Of America, two-thirds of drivers said they routinely drive while petting or playing with their dogs while maneuvering through traffic. For many years, I have been trying to educate drivers to the dangers of driving with their pets unsecured by a doggie seatbelt, pet carseat or carrier. It is very dangerous and risky for both the passenger and the dog — for example, did you know that an 80-pound dog unrestrained during an accident at just 30 mph exerts over 2,400 pounds of force in a car? Over 50% of Americans have pets, and according to a AAA spokeswoman, they see this as an increasingly huge problem.

Another problem with unrestrained dogs is at the scene of an accident the dogs become territorial and protective of their owners when first responders try to help the injured occupants. Isn’t it time we had seat-belt laws for dogs?

Every year, thousands of families purchase or adopt a new pet. Every relationship that develops between human and animal has a unique quality, a special bond that links them.

Too many people enter into this new relationship with little thought for the new pet coming into the household, and, indeed, how the new pet will change the family structure and perhaps necessitate some personality changes on their own part.

It is absolutely vital to match the type of pet and the personality of the pet with that of the family — if you haven’t picked the right one, everyone may be miserable. How do you decide which pet is right for your family? Read about the type of pet you want: there are organizations for birds, fish, frogs, dogs, cats — even rats have their own club. The Internet can be a great tool if you use it carefully.

Expectations – The entire family needs to sit down and discuss the pro and cons of the type of pet they’re considering. If Mom hates spiders, you may want to think twice about a tarantula. Decide what you want to get back from the pet — you may love your guppies, but you can’t take them on vacation with you.

Educate – It’s very important to speak to people that you trust about any type of pet: e.g., Are there certain dogs and cats that people with allergies can have? Check with pet specific organizations like the local reptile or rodent society.

Cost – Some pets are not only costly up front, but care and upkeep can run into the thousands.

Life span – How long will this pet live? Dogs 10-15 years, cats 15-20 years and some parrots 100 years, while some of the small rodents only live 2 to 4 years.

It is estimated that 4.7 million people, most of them children, are bitten annually by dogs in the United States.

According to the AVMA, 80% of dog bites occur in the home.

Sixty percent of those bitten are children.

The majority of these dog bites could be prevented by education and responsible pet ownership.

Dogs who are socialized properly and live with responsible owners are much less apt to bite.

Dogs who are spayed and neutered are three times less likely to bite.

Basic rules for greeting a strange dog:

–Never pet a dog without asking the owner if it’s OK

–Curl fingers, let the dog smell the back of your hand

–Never walk up behind a dog

–Never tease a dog

–Don’t go after their food or toys

What are the warning signs of an aggressive dog?

–Hair on neck raised (hackles)

–Raised lip, the more teeth the more aggression

–Raised tail

–Snarling and barking with growl

–Lunging

What should you do if you come across an aggressive dog?

–No fast jerky motions

–Act unconcerned

–Don’t stare in dogs eyes

–Place object between you and dog (i.e. bicycle)

–Hop on car hood or tree

–Feed your jacket or books to dog if he tries to bite

–If all else fails, lay face down on ground, cover head with hands, stay still, this is a non-threatening position from the dogs point of view

Advice on how to curb a flea and tick problem on your pets

Flea Facts:

• Flea saliva has been called the most irritating substance known to man.
• Fleas accelerate 50 times faster than the space shuttle after takeoff.
• Fleas can jump 150 times their length equivalent to a human jumping 1000 feet.
• Fleas can carry tapeworm, typhus, allergic reactions, and anemia.
• One female flea can produce 200,000 in 60 days.

PREVENTION
Of course the best defense is prevention. As far as prevention goes, fleas are less likely to attack a pet who is in good health and has a healthy coat. Good nutrition, including supplements and conditioners, go a long way in helping your pet cope with fleas.

Brushing your pet on a regular basis may also help, especially if your pet spends time outdoors. Brushing helps remove any fleas and flea eggs that your pet may have picked up.

Check your pet regularly using “Warren’s White Towel Test.” By rolling your pet in a white towel, you will see the fleas and flea dirt (brown specks) if fleas are present. If you suspect that you have fleas in your house, put on a pair of white socks, and walk around for a bit. Take them off, and dip them in water – if you see red specks, that indicates flea dung and you should treat for fleas. For people who live in suburban areas, keep your lawn cut short. This helps keep your lawn drier, and fleas prefer a moist environment.

Putting flea and tick collars and/or treatments on your pet can also help keep them safe. There are many options for you to use, both over-the-counter and prescription. Whatever treatment you decide to use, be sure that you read all directions, or talk to your veterinarian about proper applications, since these treatments often vary based on the weight and age of your pet. Many treatments offer protection against fleas AND ticks, but be sure to read the instructions first.

TREATING YOUR PET
If your pet tests positive for fleas after the white towel test, he or she can be shampooed, dipped, sprayed or dusted with a flea control product. If you opt to treat your pet yourself (instead of having your veterinarian or groomer do it), always follow the manufacturer’s label directions, never mix products, and never use a product made specifically for dogs on cats or vice versa. Following the label directions is the best way to ensure the safe, effective removal without harming your pet.

If you opt to spray or dust, here’s a helpful hint – wrap a towel around your pet for a few minutes after the product’s application to help maximize the number of fleas killed.

If you find a tick on your dog, try to remove it as quickly as possible. Take a pair of tweezers, grasp the head of the tick, and pull it straight out. Don’t believe any of the old wives’ tales of putting alcohol or matches on the tick… that won’t help! Once you’ve removed the tick, put it in a container of rubbing alcohol. Watch the area where the tick bit for any signs of allergy or reaction. If there is a reaction, you can take the tick to be tested for diseases.

Ticks usually nest in the head, neck and paw areas of your pet. Check your cat or dog every time they come inside for ticks… the earlier you find them, the less chance your dog will have problems or catch diseases.

NATURAL APPROACH TO FLEA CONTROL
As fleas become increasingly resistant to the synthetic chemicals, manufacturers are making their products stronger, and in some cases more dangerous.

I prefer a natural approach. You may want to try some of these natural alternatives.

Three organic flea fighters:

• Pyrethin – – derived from flower heads.
• D-limone — by-product of the citrus industry
• Organic Phosphates — Diatomaceous Earth — it’s messy but can work well.

You can use these herbs and essential oils:

• Cedar
• Eucalyptus
• Pennyroyal
• Rosemary oil

And among many natural products now on the market you could try HERBAL FLEA SPRAY by NaturVet for your pets and pet bedding. It contains essential oils of Cedar and Rosemary and you can find it in my online store.

Some people, who prefer a natural approach to flea control, swear by adding brewers yeast or garlic to their pets’ diets.

Use borax on carpets which will dry the fleas out

I make my own spray with lemons, grapefruit or limes – fleas do not like citrus! Take the skins of the citrus fruit, cut them into quarters and put them in a large pot. Cover with water and let them boil for several minutes. Turn off the heat and let them steep. When cool, strain off the fruit residue. You can spray directly on your dog or in the house. Since many cats hate citrus, it may not be a good idea for cats.

TREATMENT OF THE ENVIRONMENT
It is not sufficient to only treat your pet. The key to effective flea control requires a two-pronged approach – treatment of your pet, and treatment of your pet’s environment. And if your pet spends any time in your yard, that means treatment of the yard, as well as treatment of your home.

Ideally, your pet’s environment should be treated on the same day as your pet is treated. If you opt to do it yourself by using flea bombs in your home, it is critical to follow all the manufacturer’s directions and warnings.

Another approach is the application of a water-based flea spray on your pet’s bedding, carpets and other areas your pet frequents. Here, again, you must read and follow the manufacturer’s label directions. It’s also a good idea to wash your pet’s bedding frequently. And if your pet sleeps with you, you’ll need to wash your bedding frequently, too!

Vacuuming regularly will help pick up some of the fleas and their eggs. Cut up a flea collar and put it in your vacuum cleaner bag to ensure that the fleas and eggs you pick up will not survive to re-infest your home.

If your pet spends time in your yard, treat the outdoor environment with products commercially available. Remember, your pet might have been treated for fleas, but other animals (i.e., squirrels, stray cats) may carry them into your yard. Again, it’s important to follow all label directions and warnings.

If you’d rather not do the treatment yourself, you can hire a professional exterminating company to do the job. Be sure to let them know about all the pets in your home, and ask them to use nontoxic products which eliminate the need for your family (including your four-footed members) to leave the house.

The key to successful flea control is the simultaneous treatment of your pet and the environment. By following the above, you can be flea-free.

Did you know that one in three American Families feed the birds? More than 65 million American Adults enjoy this colorful pastime and here are some fun things to do to encourage birds in your backyard.

Food and Feeders
• Put up nectar feeders for Hummingbirds and Orioles.
• Place a window feeder on your child’s bedroom window for fun bird watching.
• Put out fruit and jelly feeders with jelly, orange and apple halves.
• Add a Jay feeder filled with peanuts and let Jays entertain you as they lift the lid to get a peanut.
• Use a trellis to grow flowering vines to attract Hummingbirds.

Water
• Add a source of water such as a birdbath, leaf mister, dripper or water garden to entice birds to take a drink.

Nesting
• Provide Suet Dough to help birds get extra calcium for egg-laying
• Put up nesting boxes for Wrens, Bluebirds, Chickadees, Titmice, Swallows and Purple Marlins.

Gardening
• Plant evergreens to provide the ideal cover for birds.

TOP TEN PET POISONS OF 2008

Is your pooch cuckoo for chocolate? Does your kitty like deep conditioning treatments? Sadly, not everything we love is good for us. In fact, many common household goods that we take for granted as harmless can be disastrous for our furry friends.

In 2008, the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center in Urbana, IL, handled more than 140,000 cases of pets exposed to toxic household substances, including insecticides, cleaning and beauty supplies and prescription medications.

Don’t leave it up to Fido or Fluffy to keep themselves safe. Below is a list of the top ten pet poisons that affected our furry friends in 2008.

HUMAN MEDICATIONS
For several years, human medications have been number one on the ASPCA’s list of common hazards, and 2008 was no exception. Last year, the ASPCA managed more than 50,000 calls involving prescription and over-the-counter drugs, such as painkillers, cold medications, antidepressants and dietary supplements. Pets often snatch pill vials from counters and nightstands or gobble up medications accidentally dropped on the floor, so it’s essential to keep meds tucked away in hard-to-reach cabinets.

INSECTICIDES
In our effort to battle home invasions of unwelcome pests, we often unwittingly put our pets at risk. In 2008, our toxicologists fielded more than 31,000 calls related to insecticides. One of the most common incidents involved the misuse of flea and tick products – such as applying the wrong topical treatment to the wrong species. Thus, it’s always important to talk to your pet’s veterinarian before beginning any flea and tick control program.

PEOPLE FOOD
People food like grapes, raisins, avocado and certain citrus fruit can seriously harm our furry friends, and accounted for more than 13,500 cases in 2008. One of the worst offenders – chocolate – contains large amounts of methylxanthines, which, if ingested in significant amounts, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst, urination, hyperactivity, and in severe cases, abnormal heart rhythm, tremors and seizures.

RODENTICIDES
Last year, the ASPCA received approximately 8,000 calls about pets who had accidentally ingested rat and mouse poisons. Many baits used to attract rodents contain inactive ingredients that are attractive to pets as well. Depending on the type of rodenticide, ingestions can lead to potentially life-threatening problems for pets, including bleeding, seizures and kidney damage.

VETERINARY MEDICATIONS
Even though veterinary medications are intended for pets, they’re often misapplied or improperly dispensed by well-meaning pet parents. In 2008, the ASPCA managed nearly 8,000 cases involving animal-related preparations such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, heartworm preventatives, de-wormers, antibiotics, vaccines and nutritional supplements.

CHEMICAL HAZARDS
In 2008, the Animal Poison Control Center handled approximately 7,500 cases of pet exposure to chemical hazards. A category on the rise, chemical hazards – found in ethylene glycol antifreeze, paint thinner, drain cleaners and pool/spa chemicals – form a substantial danger to pets. Substances in this group can cause gastrointestinal upset, depression, respiratory difficulties and chemical burns.

PLANTS
Common houseplants were the subject of nearly 6,500 calls to the Animal Poison Control Center in 2008. Varieties such as azalea, rhododendron, sago palm, lilies, kalanchoe and schefflera are often found in homes and can be harmful to pets. Lilies are especially toxic to cats, and can cause life-threatening kidney failure even in small amounts.

HOUSEHOLD CLEANERS
Everybody knows that household cleaning supplies can be toxic to adults and children, but few take precautions to protect their pets from common agents such as bleaches, detergents and disinfectants. Last year, the ASPCA received more than 4,000 calls related to household cleaners. These products, when inhaled by our furry friends, can cause serious gastrointestinal distress and irritation to the respiratory tract.

HEAVY METALS
It’s not too much loud music that constitutes our next pet poison offender. Instead, it’s heavy metals such as lead, zinc and mercury, which accounted for more than 3,000 cases of pet poisonings in 2008. Lead is especially pernicious, and pets are exposed to it through many sources, including consumer products, paint chips, linoleum, and lead dust produced when surfaces in older homes are scraped or sanded.

FERTILIZER
It may keep your grass green, but certain types of fertilizer can cause problems for outdoor cats and dogs. Last year, the ASPCA fielded more than 2,000 calls related to fertilizer exposure. Prevention is really key to avoiding accidental exposure, but if you suspect your pet has ingested something lawn-side, please contact your veterinarian or the Animal Poison Control Center’s 24-hour hotline at (888) 426-4435.

From ASPCA Animal Poison Control – click for Original Article

Owners can ease pain of pet medical bills, which totaled $10 billion in ’07

By David Colker – ChicagoTribune.com

Veterinarian Gregory Hammer laughed as he recalled the average price his clients paid for an office visit in 1973, when he started in rural Kansas.

“It was $6,” said Hammer, now president of the American Veterinary Medical Association.

Good luck getting so much as a torn nail clipped for that these days.

Americans spent more than $10 billion on veterinary care last year, according to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association.

A single visit to a vet cost an average of $135 for a dog owner as of 2006, the last time the veterinary group took a survey of those costs. That’s up 83 percent from 10 years earlier. Inflation played a major role-the costs of office space, staff salaries, equipment and supplies have all shot up.

Pet owners also are demanding a higher level of care. “Years ago, if an animal had a serious cancer,” Hammer said, “someone would say to put him to sleep. Now they want to be referred to an oncologist.”

But one of the biggest contributors to higher consumer costs was a comprehensive veterinary market study issued in 1999 by consulting firm KPMG International.

It found that the profession was charging too little. And some veterinarians were giving away care.

“Opportunities abound,” the executive summary of the study stated, but vets were held back by “inefficient structures, inappropriate business practices and attitudes.”

Many professionals in the field, faced with stagnating incomes, took heed.

“It was a sea change for the veterinary profession,” said Jim Flanigan, marketing director of the veterinary association.

And soon thereafter came sticker shock for clients.

“Even if your pet is perfectly healthy, vets are now ready with a battery of tests, shots and even X-rays for the annual wellness checkup,” Jeff Blyskal, a senior editor at Consumer Reports, said in a controversial 2003 article.

Not all veterinarians take it that far. And, Hammer noted, medical care for animals still costs a fraction of treatments for the same conditions in humans.

But given the relatively scant use of pet insurance, you’re likely to pay the vet’s full bill out of pocket. VPI, the largest company in the pet insurance field, maintains policies on about 450,000 dogs and cats, less than 1 percent of the 150 million total dogs and cats in the U.S.

Savings suggestions

So, here are some tips-culled from non-profit animal groups, industry watchdogs and veterinarians-on how to take the bite out of pet health costs.

Know your breed. Some breeds are more prone to expensive hereditary ailments. In analyzing data compiled by Purdue University’s Veterinary Medical Database, Consumer Reports found, for example, that hip dysplasia was most commonly found in Labrador retrievers, golden retrievers and German shepherds. (You can read the Consumer Reports article at www.consumer reports.org/Pets.)

Know your breeder. If you want a purebred, you’re much better off buying in a situation where you can speak directly to the breeder. You want to make sure the animal was not the product of a puppy or cat mill, in which females are kept nearly constantly pregnant to ensure high volume. Not only are these mills inhumane, they’re also breeding grounds for expensive health problems.

Get a mutt. They’re not nearly as likely to suffer from hereditary conditions. But, of course, they can still get sick, and expensively so.

Get a cat. According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, cat-only households spent an average of $244 on veterinary expenses in 2006. Dog-only households spent a mean of $395.

Use low-cost clinics. Many procedures-such as spaying and neutering, vaccinations and the insertion of identification chips-can be done at discount or even free clinics, some of which are government-sponsored. Information often is available at non-profit shelters.

Look for vet specials. In-office clinics can offer price breaks on vaccinations, teeth cleanings and other procedures. Also, there are senior citizen discounts and package plans for puppy or kitten care.

Go online. If a medication is not needed immediately, you can sometimes save money by ordering it online rather than buying at a veterinarian office. Suppliers include Petmed Express (www.1800 petmeds.com), PetCareRx ( www.petcarerx.com) and Foster and Smith (www.drsfostersmith.com).

Spread out your payments. It doesn’t lower bills, but some veterinarians offer payment plans from CareCredit, a credit company owned by GE Money.

One type of plan allows you to make no-interest, monthly payments on an approved schedule. But if you miss a payment, you get hit with interest charges.

Comparison shop. Los Angeles resident Aida Akhavan was told that her dog needed surgery that would cost about $5,500. She called numerous veterinary surgeons before finding one who agreed to do the operation for $1,500.

Ask about alternatives. If your veterinarian suggests an expensive treatment, ask about less-costly methods that could also be effective.

Consider insurance. Because of substantial deductibles and exclusions in pet policies, according to the Consumer Reports study, pet owners might be better off putting what they pay in monthly premiums into a savings account. But coverage could play a major role in covering bills for very expensive conditions.

Limit tests. Extensive blood tests and other diagnostic tools can be nearly as expensive as the treatments.

If a client is not able to pay for a wide range of tests, some veterinarians will offer to proceed based on best guesses.

“We make the client sign a waiver saying they understand the risks taken without a full diagnosis,” said veterinarian Sylvia Domotor, who heads a four-doctor practice in Monrovia, Calif.

It’s a route she reserves for serious cases.

“Sometimes we have to get creative,” she said, “but I’m not going to let that pet walk out the door untreated.”

Want to train your dog to do a new trick or two? Agility is the fastest-growing dog sport in North America, and tests both dog and handler’s skills and fitness. Warren Eckstein talks about how to agility-train your dog.

Information for this article is compiled from Warren Eckstein’s book “How to Get Your Dog to Do What You Want : A Loving Approach to Unleashing Your Dog’s Astonishing Potential.”

AGILITY IS ORIGINALLY based on equestrian stadium jumpers’ competitions, and made its debut as an entertainment for spectators at the Crufts Dog Show in 1979. It has since become the most rapidly growing dog sport in England, Western Europe, and North America.
The purpose of agility is to demonstrate the ability of the dog and its handler to work as a smoothly functioning team while negotiating over/under/through various obstacles and jumps. Dogs are directed through a series of obstacles and must complete the course in the allotted time. The dog should be under control at all times and show a willingness to work with the handler.
In the United States there are several national organizations for agility which sanction tests or trials held by local dog training clubs. In competition, the obstacles are arranged in various configurations which are unique from trial to trial. As the dog and handler earn their way into successively higher levels, the courses increase in complexity.
Dogs compete only against dogs of similar height within a fixed number of jump height divisions. The dog with the lowest number of faults and the fastest time wins the class or height division.

ELIGIBILITY FOR ENTRY

Generally, healthy, trained dogs over eighteen months of age are eligible to compete and most competitions are open to purebred and mixed breed dogs.
The Regular Agility class is the basis for all of the agility classes. This course tests the dog on all possible types of equipment and qualifying in this class demonstrates the dog’s ability to perform all of the types of obstacles safely and correctly. The dog and handler maneuver through a numbered obstacle course, designed by the judge. As the dog and handler progress through the levels of the Regular Agility classes, they demonstrate the ability to negotiate more complex courses with adequate speed, efficiency, handling skills, and teamwork on all obstacles.
Various types of obstacles can be included in the course. Our course, set up on the plaza in New York’s Rockefeller Center, includes the following:
Contact obstacles
8-foot dog walk: Dogs go up one side, across a thin wooden plank, and down the opposite side.
Tunnel obstacles
Closed tunnel: like an open-ended nylon sock, dog runs in one end, and shoots out the other.
Open tunnel: A long plastic, flexible tube.
Jumping obstacles
Displaceable tire jump: A suspended tire.
Long jump: Just like it sounds.
Hurdles: Can vary in height and width.
Dogs and trainers get a limited time to “practice” on the course, and usually are allowed to run through it only once or twice. While the obstacles are the same from competition to competition, the order and complexity of the route varies widely.
For a clean, non-faulted run the dog earns 10 points. Points are deducted for faults like running over the course time, knocking poles off jumps and running the course the wrong way. To be certified at a certain level and move up to higher ranks, the dogs need a total of 30 points.
In all agility classes, the handlers direct their dogs through the course without a collar or lead and without using food, toys, balls or other devices. However, the handler is allowed to use verbal or visual commands to assist the dog throughout the course.

HOW DO YOU TRAIN THEM FOR THESE TYPES OF THINGS?

Practice, practice, practice! Plus keeping it fun. Since each obstacle requires different skills, the dogs are trained differently for each one. For example, a ball can be thrown through the tunnels to “lure” them through (which, of course, can’t be done in competition) or treats can be used to help them over the see-saw and dog walks. But in every case, the handler makes it FUN for the dog, and in the end, they are rewarded with lots of positive petting!

WHAT DOES THE DOG GET OUT OF THIS?

Not only do they get in great shape, but they also learn to socialize well with other animals and people and get comfortable in different places.

WHAT KINDS OF DOGS ARE ALLOWED TO DO THIS?

All kinds! Big, small, pure-breeds, mixed-breeds… all can be included, and they compete against dogs that are approximately the same size (so that the jumps can be tailored for the course.) Personality-wise, the dogs must be responsive to commands, be willing to learn new obstacles, and full of energy.

When you were growing up, did your friends have dogs? Were these dogs housebroken and generally well-behaved? Odds are the answer is, “Yes”. Then I ask you, were these dogs kept in cages? Odds are your answer is “Never!”.

Several Years ago a new phenomenon emerged among dog trainers called “crate-training”. As far as I am concerned, “crate-training” is simply a euphemism of keeping a dog in a cage.

Crate-training (I’m going to refer to it as “caging” from here on), was touted as the perfect solution to the problem of housebreaking. And it was. After all, dogs kept in cages didn’t have access to their owner’s homes and carpets.

Caging relies on the fact that our dogs are clean by nature and won’t soil where they have to sleep or stay. But caging never teaches a dog how to be housebroken. In essence, it’s an avoidance technique which doesn’t address the task of housebreaking.

You don’t know how many calls I get from people who have caged their dogs fro housebreaking purposes but don’t know when they can trust Fido enough to let him out of the cage.

For years, responsible professional breeders have cage-trained their dogs successfully. The operative words here are “responsible professional breeders”.

First of all, these people know how to use cages effectively.

Secondly, good professional breeders devote their time to their dogs.

Being a professional breeder is a full-time job and breeders are generally there with their dogs for most of the day. Since they are there to supervise their dogs, breeders don’t need to cage their dogs for hours on end.

This does not hold true for the average family. In the average household, both spouses work outside the home at least 8 hours a day. They also sleep approximately 8 hours. So far that’s 16 hours that Fido will be in a cage. Add a couple of hours for shopping, errands and dinner out and you’re up to 18 hours a day that the dog is confined.

Three-quarters of a day is too much time for any dog to be confined. If you say that your busy life won’t permit you to devote more time to a dog, you’re probably better off with a pet that requires less maintenance – like a fish!

In my over quarter-century of working with over 40,000 dogs, I’ve never used a cage. You won’t find the use of cages for housebreaking in my dog training book How To Get Your Dog To Do What You Want: A loving approach to unleashing your dog’s astonishing potential.

Instead, housebreaking is achieved by regulating your puppy’s food and water intake, putting him on a regular walking schedule, watching your puppy for the tell-tale signs that he has to “go”, and confining him in a small gated area (the kitchen is ideal) when you cannot watch him with a hawk eye.

By using gates, you can start off with a small area (sat 3′ by 3′) and when the puppy has shown he can keep that area unsoiled, you can gradually increase the area of his confinement. As housebreaking proceeds, you’ll be giving your puppy more and more space. Your ultimate goal is to give your dog the entire run of your house. Gates afford you the flexibility of increasing the area of confinement – cages do not.

Don’t get me wrong, crates (carriers) are important and every dog owner should have one – for transporting your dog. They afford your dog protection when he’s in your car and you come to a sudden stop or, heaven forbid, if there’s an accident.

And you’ll definitely need a crate or carrier for Fido if you plan to do any air travel together. If Fido spends the vast majority of his day in a cage, he’ll never have free run of the house.

Underscoring my belief is a recent study published in 1996 by the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association: Risk factors for relinquishment of dogs to an animal shelter:

“Dogs who spend most of the day in the yard or in a crate were at an increased risk for surrender to the shelter.
The study was not able to determine whether these dogs had been relegated to the yard or a crate as a result of behavioral problems or whether keeping dogs in these situations resulted in isolation from the family, with less attachment and less training, thereby increasing the risk of relinquishment.”

I am seeing an increasing number of dogs who are under-socialized and, in some cases, actually aggressive. Kept in cages, these dogs don’t have the opportunity to interact with people and other pets.

Another problem that’s on the increase is coprophagy – stool-eating. Many a dog confined to a cage would rather eat his or her stool, than have to lie with it in a cage.

I’ve heard a few misguided dog owners say that Fido likes to sit in his cage. ” He feels secure.” What they are really telling me is that their dog is not secure in the home environment. The dog feels threatened unless he’s caged!

Other advocates of caging say it gives the dog a place of his own. My dog Rio has his own bed in my bedroom, but nine times out of ten times he’d rather curl up and snooze on the living room floor – if that’s the room I’m in. My home and my presence is all Rio needs to feel secure!

The so-called “experts” rationalize that cages are okay because dogs evolved from wolves and wolves have denning instincts.

To that I say dogs have been removed from their lupine ancestors for millions of years.

Dogs have been living with man for tens of thousands of years. Even the earliest cave paintings depict dogs as man’s companions! We cannot take a dog into our human environment, treat him like a wolf, and expect him to respond like a human.

Our dogs are beloved family members and need to be treated as such. You wouldn’t keep your child confined to his room for his entire youth and adolescence, would you? You’d have one maladjusted young person!

You want your child to be an active, full participant in your household and your life. The same goes for our dogs. And cages will never permit this to happen.