Category Archive

So you want to add a little bundle of love to your household? A cuddly little kitten or a roly-poly puppy?

Adult or senior pets make wonderful companions and they’re ideal for people who don’t want to go through the housebreaking, litter box training, chewing and general craziness that goes with adding a puppy or kitten to the household. Since older pets are often less adoptable – lacking the cuteness that is part and parcel of kittens and puppies – adding an older pet to your household may also mean saving a life.

But for those of you who have your hearts set on a younger pet, there’s a lot to be considered before taking that big step.

WARREN’S NUMBER ONE RULE
Never buy or acquire a pet on impulse. I am not a believer in what I call our society’s “revolving pet mentality.” People get a pet, then discover it’s too much to handle or cramps their lifestyle. The result – the pet winds up in a shelter or is simply let loose to fend for itself. As far as I’m concerned, once a living creature comes into my house and pees on my rug, it’s there for life!

ARE YOU READY FOR THE COMMITMENT
The decision to acquire a pet requires an understanding of the responsibility that goes with pet ownership. It’s a commitment that lasts a lifetime. Here are some questions to consider:

Can you afford a pet? This includes the purchase price (if your pet is not adopted), food, veterinary care, grooming, boarding and training.

Do you have sufficient room for a pet? While this is not as much a consideration with cats it is a big factor when considering a dog. Great Danes in studio apartments can be a little tough unless you both can spend a lot of time outdoors!

What kind of lifestyle best describes you – active or a couch potato? As I’m a believer in keeping all cats indoors (unless they’re on a leash and harness), this is more of a consideration when it comes to dogs. Certain dogs require a lot of exercise. Can you provide it?

How about other family members? Are there little children in the household? If so, and you’re considering a dog, you might be better off with one of the larger breeds that can better withstand the rough and tumble play of youngsters.

Will you be available to give a pet the care he or she needs? If you travel for business, what kind of arrangements will you make for your pet’s care in your absence? Will you have the time and patience for grooming, especially If you opt for a Persian cat or an Old English Sheep Dog?

PUREBRED VERSUS GENERIC
One of the pluses of buying a purebred dog or cat is that you basically know what the kitten or puppy will look like when full grown. This is particularly true when it comes to dogs. Many a dog owner has adopted what they thought was going to be a little dog from a shelter, only to find that it grew to be 90 pounds!

If it’s temperament that you’re concerned about, you’ll do just as well with a generic puppy or kitten as a purebred. Remember, as far as I’m concerned, it’s what you put into your pet once you get him home. The type of environment you provide your new pet will go a long way towards determining his temperament. Raise a generic puppy or kitten with loving care and you’ll have a loving companion. Raise a purebred in a crack house and you’re guaranteed to have an aggressive animal.

IF YOU OPT TO BUY FROM A BREEDER
Since you can’t look in the phone book under “R” for reputable breeders, you’ll need to check out the breeder’s credentials. Check with the American Kennel Club (for dogs), The Cat Fanciers’ Association, specialty breed clubs and local breed clubs for referrals. Get references from the breeder’s former buyers. Inspect the breeder’s kennel or cattery. Is it clean and odor-free? How do the adults look? You’ll especially want to take a look at the parents. Will the breeder guarantee the health of his animals, or permit you to have the puppy or kitten taken to your vet for a check-up? If you’re buying a pedigree, does the breeder have all the papers and documentation necessary?

CHOOSING THAT SPECIAL FURBALL
Whether you opt to adopt from a shelter or purchase from a reputable breeder, there are things you should look for when selecting a happy, healthy pet.

When choosing from a litter or several animals, look for the puppy or kitten who is not the most gregarious nor the most shy. The key here is moderation. The little furball who approaches you, then backs off, falls into the moderate category.

Physically, the furball should be plump and lively with sparkling eyes and a shiny coat. Inspect his mouth. His breath should be fresh , his gums firm and pink, and his teeth should be white. Take a look at the other end, too. The rear should be clean, not encrusted with feces which could indicate diarrhea or some other illness.

Generally speaking, if you’re choosing a new puppy (purebred or generic), choose one between the ages of 8 and 12 weeks. Any younger and he will not have had enough time to socialize with his litter mates; any older and he may have bonded too closely to them. For kittens, I also prefer 8-12 weeks of age for the same reasons. Remember, this is a rule of thumb and it isn’t to say that older kittens and puppies don’t make fine companions.

PLAN IN ADVANCE
And finally, prepare your home for the new furball’s arrival before he actually sets foot in the door. Where will he sleep? Where will the litter box be placed or the housebreaking be done? Be sure your home is puppy or kitten proofed to insure that your newest family member will be safe. You wouldn’t dream of bringing home a new baby without preparation. The same holds true for our pets.

With some thought and understanding before hand, I’ll guarantee you’ll have a friend for life!

Oh, no! Fido and Fluffy have fleas and now the whole family is scratching!

If this scenario sounds all too familiar, take heart, there are things you can do to keep your household flea-free.

Of course, the best defense is an offense. In other words, it’s best to take preventative steps before fleas take over your home.

Prevention
As far as prevention goes, I have found that fleas are less likely to attack a pet who is in good health and has a healthy coat. Fleas are attracted to pets with dry skin — it’s easier for them to burrow and get to the blood. Using my Hugs and Kisses vitamin mineral supplements will assure that your pet’s skin and coat are moist and less attractive to the flea. Good nutrition, including supplements and coat conditioners, go a long way in helping your pet cope with fleas.

Brushing your pet on a regular basis may also help, particularly if your pet spends time outdoors. Brushing helps remove any fleas and flea eggs that your pet may have picked up.

Check your pet regularly using what I like to call “Warren’s White Towel Test.” By rolling your pet in a white towel, you will see the fleas and the flea dirt (brown specks) if they are present.

Treatment of Your Pet
If your pet tests positive for fleas after the white towel test, he or she can be shampooed, dipped, sprayed or dusted with a flea control product. If you opt to treat your pet yourself (instead of having your veterinarian or groomer do it), always follow the manufacturer’s label directions, never mix products, and never use a product made specifically for dogs on cats or vice versa. Following the label directions is
particularly critical if you’re dealing with a puppy or a kitten – some products are too hazardous for use on younger pets.

Many of the Flea products on the market contain chemicals that can be bad for your pets—that is why I recommend and use only NaturVet’s all-natural Herbal Flea Spray. It smells like a spa and contains Rosemary & Cedar Oil. It can be sprayed on your pet’s bedding and is safe for use on all pets over the age of six weeks.

If you opt to use a spray or dust, here’s a helpful hint – wrap a towel around your pet for a few minutes after the product’s application to help maximize the number of fleas killed.

Treatment of the Environment
It is not sufficient to only treat your pet. The key to effective flea control requires a
two-pronged approach – treatment of your pet and treatment of your pet’s environment. And if your pet spends any time in your yard, that means treatment of the yard, as well as treatment of your home.

Ideally, your pet’s environment should be treated on the same day as your pet is treated. If you opt to do it yourself, using flea bombs in your home, again it is critical to follow all the manufacturer’s directions and warnings. To treat the environment I use NaturVet No Flea carpet crystals.

Another approach is the application of a water-based flea spray on your pet’s bedding, carpets and other areas your pet frequents. Here, again, you must read and follow the manufacturer’s label directions. It’s also a good idea to wash your pet’s bedding frequently. And if your pet sleeps with you, you’ll need to wash your bedding frequently, too!

Vacuuming regularly will help pick up some of the fleas and their eggs. Cut up a flea collar and put it in your vacuum cleaner bag to ensure that the fleas and eggs you pick up will not survive to re-infest your home.

If your pet spends time in your yard, treat the outdoor environment with products commercially available. Remember, your pet might have been treated for fleas but other animals (i.e. squirrels, stray cats) may carry them into your yard. Again, it’s important to follow all label directions and warnings.

If you’d rather not do the treatment yourself, you can hire a professional exterminating company to do the job. Be sure to let them know about all the pets in your household, including fish and birds. Ask them what their process entails. Do pets and people have to vacate the premises? For how long? Do they guarantee their work? There are several companies who offer one-year guarantees and use non-toxic products which eliminate the need for your family (including your four-footed members) to leave the house.

And finally, don’t forget to speak with your vet. There several new topical flea treatments on the market they may recommend.

The key to successful flea control is the simultaneous treatment of your pet and the environment. By following the above, you can be flea-free!

Caveat emptor! This Latin phrase means “Let the buyer be ware.” Whether we get our new puppy or kitten from “Pedigree Pets” or “Poorhouse Pound,” we have nevertheless made a purchase. For if we haven’t committed dollars, we have certainly committed feelings. If an illness surfaces, who of us can return that cute little bundle of fur? Very few, indeed. But what if we’re told there is a heart defect or bone malformation or any other serious problem which will carry through our pet’s life? Then what?

Your veterinarian is best equipped to help you through these decisions. He or she can advise you on the seriousness of a problem, prognosis, potential for chronicity, recurrence and cost. This is why it is so important to have your veterinarian examine your new pet as soon as possible.

The first thing I do when greeting a new owner is to have them view a video tape of exactly what the first examination will provide. This tape runs about four and one half minutes and details what a complete physical examination should include. This is good for me too because it keeps me on my toes. Once I’ve let my client see what they should be getting for their money, then I’d better deliver!

We briefly discuss the vaccination program. More develops on this subject during subsequent visits and with the help of additional video tapes in the series I use.

If they haven’t brought a stool specimen, we provide the client with a container and request that they bring a specimen next visit or before. I explain parasites and their control. Nutrition, feeding and basic training are all subjects we cover, as well.

The first examination should check for congenital defects such as those we mentioned before. I like to take an overall view of the pet first, looking for anything obvious. What is the condition of the skin? Are there any spots, hairless areas, or patches of inflammation? Are the eyes properly placed, clear, and normal in size? Are the nostrils even and open? I review the jaw, legs, feet and tail. Is there an umbilical hernia or any other kind? Extra toes or too few? Then we go to the instruments for the finer points – otoscope for ears, ophthalmoscope for viewing the deeper structures of the eyes, stethoscope for hearing the heart.

I think a very important part of any examination is listening. I want to know the owners’ observations because what they see at home is almost always more significant than what is seen on the examination table. Is there a cough, diarrhea, head shaking, ear scratching, erratic appetite? An older colleague once told me that we miss more things by not looking than by not knowing. To that I migh tadd, “and by not listening. “

We usually begin our vaccination program on this first visit also. Because so many puppies and kittens come to us having been given inoculations at too early an age, we often need to take some time to explain that a vaccination given before 8 or 9 weeks of age usually has little permanent effect.

Lastly, since I know there will be questions arising before the next scheduled visit in two weeks, I conclude by letting our clients know that I understand and expect that. “I’d rather you call me once too often than once not enough.”

This is the kind of initial examination I believe you should expect for your new pet. If your veterinarian does this for you, then I think you can begin your professional relationship with a feeling of comfort and confidence.

Among the hundreds of letters, emails, and facebook messages I receive each week, there are always several from animal-lovers requesting my advice with regard to what organizations I would recommend they donate money to. Sometimes the writers are preparing their wills, other times the writers have questions as to whether the organizations they are currently donating to are really worthy of their hard-earned money.

As a rule, I never recommend specific organizations – it’s your money and the ultimate decision must be yours. I can, however, provide several guidelines to make the decision-making process easier.

1. When considering making a donation to an animal shelter, I personally prefer ones with a “no kill” policy. These organizations do not euthanize their animals if not adopted within a specific time period. Such shelters only resort to euthanasia if the rescued animal is suffering due to a hopeless physical condition.
2. Any shelter that you are considering should permit you to visit their premises. You should be able to see first-hand the facilities and care they are providing. If they refuse your request, remove them from your list of consideration.
3. Request a copy of the organization’s current financial report. If they refuse to provide you with a break-down, consider another organization. Any organization worth its salt will have nothing to hide and will provide you with this information. Once you’ve received such a report, review it. How are their funds being utilized? Is the majority of their money going towards the actual care of the animals or to administrative costs (i.e. salaries and advertising)?
4. If the tax deductibility of your contribution is important to you, the organization must be recognized by the IRS as a non-profit organization. Such organizations are required to file with the federal government. Ask them to provide you with proof of their non-profit status.
5. Don’t let slick promotional brochures be your only criterion for selecting an organization. Many small “mom and pop” organizations simply do not have the time, money nor manpower to produce fancy brochures – they’re too busy using their limited resources for doing the actual rescue work and caring for the animals.

In recognition of their needs, in 1995 I founded the Hugs & Kisses Animal Fund in memory of my late wife Fay who championed the work of small rescue and humane groups. The Fund is an all volunteer non profit organization; all donations are used to support the work of volunteer rescue groups.

Because of the generosity of people who donate to the Fund year-round, we can reward the efforts of hundreds of unrecognized humane groups by approving their grant requests. In the face of economic calamity, a small check to these “humane heroes” who struggle daily is tremendous encouragement.

To read “thank you” notes from various groups helped by the Hugs & Kisses Animal fund go to www.hugsandkissesanimalfund.org

Apply the guidelines listed above and you may just find the organization worthy of your support!

Residents of the New York metropolitan area became aware of “Willie” – the subject of a massive doghunt. Willie, the 12 year-old yellow Labrador Retriever of school superintendent William McDonald, was stolen along with Mr. McDonald’s 1982 Datsun early in October. Although the car has never been recovered, we’re happy to report that exactly a month to the day after he was abducted, Willie – 10 pounds lighter and weary from his experience – was happily reunited with his owner! Thanks to the kindness and compassion of Police Officer Peter Doolan, who found Willie tied-up and abandoned in a totally different county, this story has a happy ending.

Sadly, there are far too few happy endings. Auto thefts involving pets are one facet of pet disappearances. A major factor in pet abductions is the huge black market for animals.

Catnapping and dognapping are a grim reality.

Today there are additional reasons and incentives for thieves to focus their attention on pet animals. We’ve recently seen a new trend develop – drug dealers stealing small dogs and cats. They use them to antagonize their larger guard dogs – to teach them to viciously maul and kill moving things. By using these barbaric training techniques, the dealers insure their dogs’ vicious behavior towards rival drug dealersand police. And who hasn’t heard of some incident in which religious cults have used animal sacrifices. I know these are not pretty thoughts but their recitation may be just the motivation you need to safeguard your beloved four-footed family members. Remember, prevention now could save you, your family and your pets from a lot of heart break.

PREVENTATIVE STEPS TO SAFEGUARD YOUR PETS

1. Never leave your pets unattended in any area where there’s easy access to them. This includes leaving them alone in cars – even if the car is locked (remember the story of Willie), or tied up outside the store.

2. If your pet has an enclosed yard or a run,be sure there are locks that only you can open.

3. Pets should not be allowed in the front yard without supervision. Front yard fencing tends to be low, making it easy for a passerby to reach over and quickly grab a pet.

4. Even if there are no leash laws in your municipality, dogs should never be allowed to
run free. They can be scooped up and stolen much too easily.

5. Don’t assume that since you have a big dog he’s safe. Large dogs, especially purebreds such as Labrador Retrievers and German Shepherds, are particularly in demand among black marketeers. You see, dogs are sold by the pound at animal auctions – the heavier the dog, the more money he brings the seller.

6. Be sure your pet is wearing up-to-date ID tags (featuring a phone number that is always manned or has an answering machine) and/or is registered with a pet registry. And please make sure they are microchipped.

Although Lyme Disease is not yet a problem in cats, pet owners should nevertheless be on the alert. In one veterinary practice it was reported that, compared to hundreds of dogs diagnosed with Lyme Disease, only about fifteen cats were found to be affected. An interesting phenomenon of the disease transmission process may offer the explanation, and that is that the infecting bacteria do not pass into the bloodstream of the host until up to 24 hours after attachment of the tick. Cats generally are rather fastidious self-groomers, and thus may detect and remove a tick before this amount of time has elapsed. However, this does not address recent reports that Lyme Disease is also spread by mosquitoes and certain biting flies as well. I think we can expect to see more of this disease in cats.

So, what is Lyme Disease? It is an infection caused by the borrelia burgdorferi. Early symptoms can occur within a month of infection and frequently appear as fever, loss of appetite and lameness. Interestingly enough, not all dogs with a positive blood test have the disease and not all dogs with a negative blood test do not have the disease! Therefore three things are involved in making the diagnosis: signs and symptoms, blood tests, and the interpretation of a skilled clinician.

Once the diagnosis is made, be it certain or presumptive, early treatment with antibiotics is usually effective. Fortunately for our canine friends, we have a vaccine for Lyme Disease which over the last few years has proven to offer excellent protection when properly administered.

Let me say just a few words about protecting ourselves. Be aware that April through October are the months when infection is most likely. When walking in wooded areas, stay in the middle of the path. Be sure to tuck pants into socks, wear light colored clothing and long-sleeved shirts.

Lyme Disease is here to stay, but by being aware we certainly have a good start on its prevention and control.

At this time of year one of the questions I’m most frequently asked is, “Does my pet need to wear a coat when she goes outside?”

Many people assume that since she has a coat of her own – the coat given to her by Mother Nature – Fluffy doesn’t need to wear a coat or sweater. This assumption is erroneous since Fluffy’s own coat has been fooled by modern technology! You see, she’s living in a environmentally controlled climate with the luxury of indoor heating – indoor heating which fools Mother Nature. When animals live outdoors, their coats and their bodies have an opportunity to gradually adjust to the colder temperatures as the summer turns to fall and fall turns to winter. The gradual change of seasons allows the body to acclimate and the coat grows thicker. But when a pet lives indoors with an average temperature of 68 or 70 degrees, her coat just doesn’t grow in the way it needs to offer her full protection. So here’s my rule of thumb – when you go outdoors and you need a coat, so does your pet.

How do you measure your pet for the properly fitting coat or sweater? The best thing to do is to bring your pet with you to the pet shop, if you can. If this is not possible, take a tape measure and measure from her withers (from what we would call the shoulder blades at the base of the neck) and measure down her back to where her tail begins. Write down that measurement. For some broad chested pets, it also helps to measure around the barrel of the chest – measuring around the widest part of the chest. Write down that measurement. And if your pet has a large neck like some of the stockier breeds, be sure to measure around her neck, too. Also note if your pet has a grooming style that has some of its fur puffed up – such as certain poodle clips. Any grooming style that features extra hair may mean that your pet will need one size larger. This also holds true if your pet is a little overweight and has a bit of a tummy (shame on you!).

When buying a coat or sweater, look for good workmanship. Too many pet sweaters and coats are what I consider to be of inferior quality. Pay attention the workmanship around the neck and the tail areas. Are the surfaces smooth? Is the stitching even and uniform so as not to rub against and irritate your pet’s skin? Check what it’s made of and whether it is washable (unless you don’t mind paying your pet’s dry cleaning bills!). Is it waterproof? That’s particularly important if you live in an area subject to lots of snow and rain.

If your pet already has a coat or sweater in the closet, go take a look at it. Does it fit well or did you buy it when Fluffy was younger or several pounds thinner? It may be time for a new one. The same holds true if Fluffy has a tendency towards arthritis. Is it easy for her to get into and out of? If not, get her a style that will be more comfortable and less of a hassle for both of you when it’s time to suit-up.

It goes without saying that senior pets and puppies and kittens need the additional protection coats and sweaters provide. But, as far as I’m concerned, ALL pets that go outdoors should have some winter clothing. Don’t do your pet an injustice this season – be sure she’s well dressed – not just for fashion’s sake, but for the sake of her health.

What if your perfectly trained Kitty suddenly stops using the litter box? Every cat is entitled to an accident once in awhile. However, If Kitty’s elimination habits suddenly change, it’s important that you take her to the vet for a check-up. Once any physical problems have been ruled out, there are steps you can take to get Kitty back on track. But first let’s understand the psychological factors that may trigger such behavior.

Cats are very sensitive creatures and many things may trigger litter box problems. The arrival of a new baby, with the new smells and the scent of dirty diapers, may trigger undesired toilet behavior. The same holds true for the arrival of another pet in the household Even the absence of a beloved family member may set off this behavior. I refer to this as the “Hansel and Gretel Syndrome” … Kitty will eliminate on items carrying the strong scent of the missing person (i.e. pillows, bedding or dirty clothes). No, this is not spiteful behavior! Cats in the wild leave their scent (in the form of urine or stool) as a marker to attract other cats. Kitty is simply trying to help you find your way back home in the same way that Hansel and Gretel left a trail of bread crumbs!

No matter what the cause, there are steps you can take to get Kitty back on track.

1) Select the right litter box for Kitty. In many cases, a plain pan-type box will do just fine. If your Kitty is more finicky, you may have to try several different types until you hit the type she will use. Some cats prefer their privacy; therefore, a covered litter box is ideal. Others with strong natural instincts may even require a second litter box. You see, cats in the wild will defecate in one area and urinate in another.

A special note to owners of senior citizen cats: Golden age Kitty may find the sides of the litter box too high to get into. Try using a litter box with lower sides. Additionally, your older, slower Kitty may not be able to get to the litter box in time (especially if the litter box is downstairs and Kitty is spending her time upstairs). Try introducing an additional litter box for each level of your home.

2) Select the right litter. There are so many types on the market it can be confusing! There are clay litters, scented litters, clumping litters, organic litters, time-released litters. You may have to try several different types until you hit the one Kitty prefers. When you find the one Kitty prefers, stick with it! If your cat suddenly stops using the litter box and she checks out physically, the first thing to consider is whether you’re using a different type of litter.

3) Keep the litter box clean. While scooping it out daily is okay, be sure to change it several times a week. Some cats will require that you change their litter daily. Dirty litter boxes are the number one reason why our scrupulously clean cats stop using the litter box.

4) Clean up any soiled areas with an odor neutralizer such as American Kennel Club Gold Stain and Odor Remover. Regular household cleaning products almost always contain ammonia – the same chemical found in urine and stool. By using these products, you’re actually encouraging Kitty to return to the scene of the crime!

If you can honestly say that you’ve followed all the steps above and Kitty is physically healthy but still insists on using your home as a toilet instead of her litter box, it’s time to move to the next step to correct Kitty’s behavior.

1) Locate the areas in which Kitty has been soiling. Generally speaking there will be one or more specific areas that Kitty has been favoring.

2) Clean these areas thoroughly with the odor neutralizer.